Wilpattu National Park, Sri Lanka

September 20-22, 2019

Toque Macaque

We spent all 3 days on 12-hour safaris in Wilpattu National Park. Located in northwestern Sri Lanka, Wilpattu is one of my favorite national parks. Not only is it close to home, and where Saranga and I first met… but it has amazing animals and a unique diversity of habitats and perhaps the most beautiful scenery of any of the parks. From grasslands, arid shrublands, and old growth jungles… to an array of freshwater lakes, brackish lakes, and coastal cliffs and shoreline. See a sampling of the habitats below. The park even hides an array of preserved archeological sites. Wilpattu’s 1,317 square kilometers make it Sri Lanka’s largest national park.

A herd of Spotted Deer, a common sight in the park

We arrived extra early to try to be he first jeep in line going into the park… not only to get first encounters of animals out in the morning, but also to see the leopard, bear, and elephant tracks in the road before they get covered, and to avoid vehicles in front of us kicking up dust from the dirt and sand roads. Perhaps our most notable “first encounter” was this massive bull elephant; one known to charge vehicles on occasion! This day he was coating himself with dirt from the road before making his way into the jungle.

A massive bull elephant in musk at Wilpattu National Park

While searching for leopards, birding wasn’t our primary focus; regardless, we still managed to identify over 80 species of birds in the park! A favorite for me was my lifer Cotton Pygmy-Goose! A tiny white goose with an iridescent green back.

Lesser Adjutant, the second largest bird residing in Sri Lanka

Sri Lankan Jackal, a subspecies of Golden Jackal

One day, while resting after eating lunch, I opted to stay in the jeep while Saranga and his friends were photographing a very cooperative Changeable Hawk-Eagle nearby. Suddenly I saw what I have best identified as either a Common Bronzeback or a Shokar's Bronzeback snake coming down the tree in front of me. I grabbed my camera and before I realized what was happening, a high-speed chase was occurring next to me between the snake and a rather unfortunate gecko. Two trips up and down the tree, and the snake won in both endurance and stealth. Shade from the jungle canopy didn’t offer the best light, and my recently dropped point-and-shoot camera couldn’t focus quickly enough for the action, but I did manage this short series of shots to remember the action.

Bronzeback snake consuming a gecko

Bronzeback snake consuming a gecko

The next day, at the same lunch spot, we found this White-rumped Shama catching a similarly unfortunate baby Dotted Garden Skink. Sometimes stopping to rest gives you the best opportunity for the wildlife to come close to you. 

White-rumped Shama with a juvenile Dotted Garden Skink

White-rumped Shama with its prey

We also met this elephant as we rested in the shade next to this grassy watering hole, he eventually wandered out from the jungle to drink and bathe before turning back to retreat to the shade, himself. 

Indian Flying Fox roost colony 

Grizzled Giant Squirrel

By the middle of our third day, our effort in the park finally paid off… there in the brush, lounging next to a termite mound was a massive male Leopard! We watched him for over 30 minutes as he napped, washed his face and paws, and twitched his tail. We hoped he would come out to explore a nearby water hole, but eventually he simply stood, stretched, and wandered deeper into the jungle. Regardless, it was a breathtaking and priceless few moments to spend in the presence of such a powerful apex predator.

Sri Lanka Leopard resting in Wilpattu National Park

Peace, and thanks for reading! I hope you'll want to visit Wilpattu National Park. Saranga and I would be happy to show you around! 

Saranga with the safari vehicle we rode around in for the 3 days

Obligatory selfie of Saranga and me in the park after lunch